Can't find the size you're looking for? Check out our custom belt chart
YES. We do offer Belts in just about any size. You will need to call in to our customer service department (800.228.0000) for a custom size quote. You will need to know the size of the belt you need. If you are not sure, there are one of two ways to measure. You can measure an existing belt by laying it flat, measuring the width, then the length and multiplying the length by 2, or cutting it and measuring the overall length. You can take a string and wrap it around the machine in the normal position the belt would be in and then measure the string. Custom belt orders usually take 3 to 4 business days to manufacture and ship out.
Formula: Select grit price, multiply by the length of belt, add the joining fee = your per belt cost. Intermediate sizes use next higher price.
To calculate your belt cost, simply multiply the list price figure according to grit by the length of the belt. Then add the charge for joining. Our customer service personnel will gladly help you with this calculation, if necessary.
Grit Ranges & Applications
24-60 are Coarse Grits (Heavy Surfacing and/or Stock Removal – Contouring Edges – Removal of Machining Marks)
80-120 are Medium Grits (Leveling and/or Light Surface Conditioning – Removal of Previous Grit Scratches)
150-240 are the Fine Grits (Finishing Grits, Final Leveling and/or Smoothing Surface for Finish)
320-600 are Pre-Polish (Satin Metal Finish – Leveling Wood Finishes)
800-1500 are Polish (Gloss to Mirror Metal Finish – Piano Finish Polish – Acrylic, Plastic, Solid Surface Polishing)
What is ACT?
ACT - Advanced Coating Technology: Klingspor uses this technology to improve the properties of the coated abrasives. When working on metal, ACT provides significantly higher grit adhesion, e.g. for aggressive belt grinding of the edges of punched parts and castings. This significantly increases the life of the grinding belt. For belts that are used for wood and varnish grinding, ACT prevents the premature clogging of the coated abrasives and significantly increases the service life.
ACT Abrasives include:
- Premium Belts
- Ceramic Belts
- Heavyweight Discs
Why do you offer abrasives in inches and metric?
KLINGSPOR Germany uses metric for all measurements. KLINGSPOR U.S.A. uses metric for length since most of our rolls are cut on European calibrated cutting machines, which are set up to measure in metric lengths. Metric is not the standard measuring system in America, we convert the width to inches (closest metric equivalent) which reduces confusion and ordering the wrong width for their application.
I apply a lot of gloss spar varnish finishes usually on red and white oak with a sanding sealer first coat. What would you suggest as the best abrasives, grits, backing, etc. to use between coats?
With spar varnish and Tung oil finishes, dry time is an important factor in sanding between coats. We recommend our UltraFlex S/C pads of 220 and 320 grits between coats. If the varnish is softer and not quite hard enough for sanding, then we recommend our Stearated S/C PL35 sheets. These help against loading of soft finishes with little pressure. Make sure to sand lightly against the grain first, then come back with the grain and double the passes. This will ensure a level scuff and remove the cross grain scratches that were first applied.
What is the difference between Stearate A/O and Stearate S/C?
Stearate A/O and S/C are dry sanding types of sandpaper. Stearate A/O (Aluminum Oxide) primarily used in bare wood or non-ferrous metal applications where loading of the material could occur. Stearate S/C (Silicon Carbide) is primarily used in between coats of finish. The added stearate acts as a dry lubricant while sanding on surfaces where wet sanding cannot be applied. Stearate S/C is not recommend for bare wood sanding and SOME water based finishes. Instead look at our regular wet/dry S/C for water based finishes.
If you're using water based finishes and have questions, please contact our technical department before finishing your project.
Can you use a disc with no holes on a random orbital sander that has a backing pad with a hole pattern?
Yes. Sanding is simply the removal of material through friction. Keep in mind the holes are an added benefit for you. The holes are used to extract the dust/loading of material you have removed with the sandpaper. If you notice swirl marks in the piece you are sanding, you will want to wipe the surface between grits or get dust collection.
Do you offer a tape or glue to rejoin or re-seam broken belts?
No. Joining a belt together is a very precise process. It uses a special epoxy with tape to create a lasting joint. The biggest environmental threat to the tape joint is moisture. We recommend that you do not hang portable belts on a hook or peg. Instead keep your belts in a plastic bag or in a climate controlled area. Typical standard life of a belt joint is one to two years.
How can I reduce loading of my abrasives while sanding?
A very easy and helpful solution to belt loading is a "rubber cleaning stick." This rubber-based stick, item #'s BS99116 - BS99801 - WK30030 - WK13100, are held against the loaded belt as it is running. The rubber pulls out trapped sanding residue impacted between the abrasive grains, thus increasing the belt life. Also useful for Drum Sanders, Long and short belts, Discs and Fibre Discs.
Is there an easier way to sand contoured or profiled shapes?
This problem can be easily remedied with KLINGSPOR's Mac Mop. This wheel consists of hundreds of small abrasive strips bonded to a strong epoxy core. Typical applications include the sanding of turned wood parts, scuff sanding of sealer coats, satin finishing of metal parts, mold sanding and sanding of virtually any profile. Mac Mops are available in two sizes: 10" x 2" and 10" x 4" and in grits ranging from 80 to 180. They are best used on a motor with at least a 3/4" diameter spindle and operate at between 1100 rpm and 3000 rpm.
What grading reference system does Klingspor abrasives use?
F.E.P.A. - "Federation of European Producers of Abrasives." Normally used to describe a European grading system for abrasive grain to differentiate it from the US A.N.S.I. system. Products graded to the F.E.P.A. system have the letter "P" prior to the grit designation. Another grading system is C.A.M.I., which is, "Coated Abrasives Manufacturers Institute." A trade association composed of US coated abrasive manufacturers. This will not have a P in front of the grit.
What is the best product for sanding wood, metals, stone, glass, etc.?
The recommended abrasive varies depending on the material being sanded. For ALUMINUM, CAST IRON, CHROME, & STEEL the best product would be Alumina Zirconia for rough grinding and Aluminum Oxide for general purpose grinding and finishing. Silicon Carbide is sometimes used for final finishing. For WOOD the best product is Aluminum Oxide for general purpose sanding. Alumina Zirconia can be used for planing operations and Silicon Carbide is often used when working with particle board. For GRANITE or other stone material we recommend Silicon Carbide almost exclusively. Usually ground wet to reduce dust and eliminate burning.
What is the difference between "open coat" and "closed coat"?
Open Coat is a coated abrasive product in which the abrasive grain covers approximately 50% to 70% of the coated side surface. Helps to retard loading of sticky or gummy materials such as softwoods or paint. Closed-coat is better for sanding metal and wood finishes but clogs easily with sawdust.
What is the difference between Silicon Carbide, Aluminum Oxide, Stearate, and Aluminum Zirconia?
Alumina Zirconia: A high-performance alloyed abrasive formed by Zirconia deposited in an Alumina matrix. An alloy of Aluminum Oxide and Zirconium Oxide. Designed for heavy duty stock removal for metal and wood, with self-sharpening characteristic. Belts are normally blue in color. It normally works well for grinding stainless steel, spring steel, titanium and other hard metals and for dimensioning wood. Comes in Belts, Discs, Fibre Discs, and wraps for your drum sander.
Aluminum Oxide: An abrasive made by fusing the mineral bauxite. A very strong and tough abrasive. The most commonly used abrasive for wood and metal. Normally brown or reddish-brown in color. Usually it is best suited for sanding metals, wood and solid surface. Comes in Belts, Sheets, Sleeves, Rolls, and even several options in the form of discs.
Zinc Stearate: A dry lubricant added to the surface of coated abrasives (usually sheet or disc goods) which prevents loading of soft materials such as paint and other finishes. Normally white-gray in color.
Silicon Carbide: An abrasive made from coke and silica sand. Very sharp and hard abrasive. Used for sanding between coats of finish, painted or otherwise finished surfaces, rubber, plastic, non-ferrous metals and other types of materials. Cuts very well under light pressure. Has self-sharpening properties and normally black in color.
Garnet: A very sharp grain that cuts very quickly when new. It fractures quickly, keeping it sharp. it is perfect for sanding wood end grains or for final finish sanding of wood. Garnet is very economical. Mostly found in sheet form.
What is the difference between the Bargain Box, the premium, and the economy belts?
In the premium you get our best backing material, while in the bargain box you can get several different backings but all are still cloth aluminum oxide. The Economy belts have a more pliable backing than the premium belts and they are still aluminum oxide and you get a consistent quality each and every time.
What product do you recommend for shaping the deep contours in wooden chair seats?
You could use a fiber disc, angle grinder flap wheel, or flap disc on a right angle grinder for the actual cutting. You can also use products like Arbortech Turbo Plane. That would be the quickest. Also depending on how deep you need to go, probably start with 60 or 80 grit and then adjust up or down based on removal rate.
What products does KLINGSPOR offer in waterproof sandpaper?
Usually products that have been chemically treated to be waterproof (i.e. they will often have a WP or "waterproof" designation on backing) and all our polyester backed products which are inherently waterproof. Other products that are not marked but do work well with water, naphtha, mineral oils and waxes are the UltraFlex Pads in either A/O or S/C. Please check with our customer service for more information to best choose the right product for your application.
When sanding surfaces, how many grits can I skip in a run?
We recommend you never skip more than one grit as you work up through a grit sequence. When you start with a coarse grit you have a depth of scratch that is created. As you move up the grit range you cut or level the previous surface down to the initial scratch you started with. When you skip more than one grit in a sequence, the depth of scratch is not enough to level the surface down to the previous scratch. Typically this causes heat build-up and premature abrasive service life. When you use a grit too fine, you'll fatigue the abrasive and yourself quickly trying to remove previous grit scratches.
|Possible Depth of Scratch:||.025" - .022"||.015" - 018"||.008" - 010"||.005" - 006"||.004"||.003"|
How do I measure the 3" x 9" pump sleeve? (applies to custom sizes too)
There are two sizes of 3x9 pump sleeves. One is for an American drum and the other is for a drum made in China. Pump sleeves are measured like a belt. You can measure an existing sleeve by doing the following: lay the sleeve flat, measure the overall length, and then the width multiplied by 2. If you don't have a sleeve, you can wrap a string around the outer (metal) part of the drum and measure the string.
Clubs WOODWORKING RELATED
I'm a club member and wish to receive a club discount on your website. How can I make certain I do receive that discount?
Check with your club president to confirm your club has submitted a roster to us and that your name was included. Once you have confirmed that we have your club's information, establish a login with us by visiting My Account located at the top of the home page. If you already have a login, simply click Login at the top of the home page. The login process should occur before entering into the checkout process. You can however login after adding items to your shopping cart and the prices of club related discounts will be effective.
What is the club discount program and how does my club participate in the program?
Our club program was created as a great way to help woodworkers across the country save money on products that they may already purchase.
A Woodworking Club Member benefits are:
- 10% discount on products found in our catalog or online (**Discounts do not apply to items already discounted, closeout items, powered tools, and some woods**)
- Expert advice on sanding applications and troubleshooting problems
- Regular mailings of our most up-to-date catalogs, monthly newsletter or sales flyer via email
- Donations for club raffles (twice a year)
How do I keep my paper from burning & clogging while sanding with my drum sander?
Heat is the main culprit that causes clogging. The best way to remedy some of this is to make light passes and use a belt cleaning stick periodically to remove any built up particles in the abrasive. Dust build-up can also contribute to abrasives clogging and burning. Using a good dust collection with at least 1,000 cfm is ideal, as drum sanders produce a tremendous amount of dust that needs to be extracted. A shop vac just won't handle the amount dust that is created. A side note - Be sure to have decent filtration (30 micron or better) on any dust system you may use. Also make sure your wraps are not touching each other when on the drum. Keep at least a 1/16" gap between wraps. This will aid in cooling and dust removal from the sanding process.
Why can you not use a shop roll for drum sanding?
The shop rolls are too flexible and will stretch out from the heat on a drum sander, which would translate into wrinkles and binding of the cloth backing.
Do you offer any finishes that are considered food safe?
We have several options that will work when a food safe finish is required. Visit our finishing section > food safe.
The color came out differently on my project than the color on the can, color chip, or sample in the store did. What can I do?
If the stain comes out too light, then you may have sanded to smooth. Typically the best overall color achieved with staining is after 180grit sanding. Any finer and you are burnishing the wood causing your stain to not penetrate or be of a darker color. If the color is light and dark or “Blotchy” on the wood, then you can add a pre-conditioner before staining.
What are the VOC shipping regulations on finishes?
Complete Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) limits can be found at www.issa.com/vocsum. The states that have VOC limits are as follows: California, Conneticut, Delware, Maine, Massachusetts, Maryland, Michigan, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Northern Virginia, & Washington D.C.
Why is the color of the stain uneven on my project?
The problem could be the wood grain, density of the wood, or glue has gotten on the surface of the wood.
Why am I being charged Sales Tax?
Due to changes in the law concerning remote sellers by many states, we are required to collect and remit sales tax in certain states. For orders shipped to any of the following states, sales tax will be applied to your order.
Arizona, Arkansas, California, Colorado, Connecticut, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Idaho, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Nebraska, Nevada, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, South Dakota, Utah, Vermont, Virginia, Washington, West Virginia, and Wisconsin.
See the table of states that we do and do not collect collect and remit sales tax in by visiting https://www.woodworkingshop.com/statetax/
Woodturner's guide to tool steel
Here are some tips to explain the differences in the tool steel from the 2 main suppliers. Robert Sorby and Crown Tools. The basic principles are the same for others but may be slightly different.
Standard high-speed steel (HSS) Good cutting and shaping properties, has a fine cutting edge (Very sharp)
Powder metal (PM) Great edge retention (about 3X as long as standard high-speed steel) but not as fine of cut. Edge is more jagged - great for roughing out and on dirty wood.
Cobalt/Titanium Nitride It is in between the standard high speed steel and the PM tools the edge is finer than PM but does not hold as long as PM
Cryo This is a PM tool that has been super cooled to realign the grain structure of the metal. You have the best of the high speed steel and PM tools in one...an edge that is fine as standard high speed steel and an edge that will last as long as standard PM. This is still easy to sharpen.
M42 Cryo Very close to the Cryo with the PM tools - I have found it not to have quite as long of edge life but very close easy to sharpen and a good option
HSS - good sharp tool must sharpen more
PM/Cobalt/Titanium Nitride - long edge retention but not as sharp as edge
Cryo - has long edge retention and very sharp
What can be used to clean and polish Pyrography Pen Tips?
An affordable means of cleaning wood burning tips while using (warm):
We recommend cutting a square of denim from some old clothing. Fold it 4 times to make it thick. Pen tips can be wiped off on the denim to remove build up when warm. This can be done while working on a project but doesn't thoroughly replace a good cleaning of the tips. Set the burner on a lower heat setting and place the denim on a scrap piece of wood or hard surface to support the heat. Support the denim with your index finger and thumb on the opposing hand as they tip. The denim will wipe some of the buildup off of the pen tips and they can continue to be used. Though denim is thick - heat will transfer through and if you are NOT careful, will scorch or burn the item underneath the denim.
For cleaning tips, and polishing...
After several burns you'll start to notice your tip is darker, slightly discolored, and not as hot as it has been. This is severe buildup. Always hone after you've let the tip cool as you could risk damaging the honing strop, or bending your tips if done when the tips are warm or hot. We recommend using a strop in combination with stropping compound to clean and polish your tips. When doing this, only a small amount of compound needs to be added to the strop. Be sure to clean and polish, equally, all sides of the tip that are used when burning. If NOT done equally, this could change the consistency of how your tips burn. Wipe each tip clean after polishing.
PW14 - Flexcut Knife Strop - This combination of leather strop on a wooden plate, with the yellow compound makes for an economical cleaning/polishing solution.
CA10000- Genuine Leather Honing Strop - A piece of solid leather 2"x 12" (Honing Compound Not Included).
TD40021- Trend Honing Paste & Leather Kit - A genuine leather strop measuring 8"x 3" with ultrafine polishing compound.
MW40000 - Small Hone Strop - 1-3/8" wide x 6-3/4" long synthetic leather strop surface (Honing Compound Not Included).
MW41000 - Large Hone Strop - 2-5/8" wide x 8-1/2" long synthetic leather strop surface has plenty of room for several use (Honing Compound Not Included).
HRBD1 - Yellowstone Honing Compound- Simply the finest honing compound on the market. Bar measures 1" x 1" x 4".